The latest serial watch collectors have added to their wishlists

For a bit more glamor – and if you couldn’t get your dream Audemars Piguet – Girard-Perregaux has a 42mm Laureato which it describes as a “symphony of shapes and hues”, coming as it does so in polished and brushed rose gold with a black onyx dial. A proposal of $80,000 is a beautiful thing.

PanoMatic calendar from Glashütte Original. Tudor’s revamped 39mm Ranger. The Laureato 42mm from Girard-Perregaux.

If you want a little more obvious watchmaking on your wrist, not to mention something really special, Glashütte Original offers the PanoMaticCalendar. This is its first annual calendar model with a movement that automatically takes into account the different number of days in a month.

Aside from the clever operation, it is the watch’s typically Teutonic look, with off-center day, large date, month and moon phase displays that captivate. Spanning 42mm, it’s available in openworked gold and platinum versions, around $40,000 for gold, $60,000 for platinum.

Given these prices, we come to Tudor’s latest release with some relief. The brand is on the rise thanks to its Black Bay range, which it positions as an accessible Rolex. Tudor’s newcomer is a revamped Ranger, a sub-$4000 watch that embodies the simplicity of the tool watch.

Sized at 39mm, it’s reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer 1, and while you could argue it’d probably be even better at the latter’s 36mm, its seriously pared-back approach – big numerals and refreshingly small text – sets it apart from most contemporary watches.

Straddling the border between contemporary and vintage, bold and restrained, the internal elements (stopwatch with 70 hour reserve) and the brushed finish are as current as any other, while the details (curved glass, high readability) are comforting rather than showy.

It wouldn’t be surprising if that alone gave the lowly Ranger the kind of “it” factor that many collections lack.

The Fashion issue of AFR Magazine will be released on Friday August 26 indoors The Australian Financial Review.

About Robert L. Thomas

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