No horological genre celebrates the intricate and delicate craftsmanship of mechanical horology like skeleton or openwork design.
Doing without the watch dial, the skeletonization seeks to open up the movement for dramatic visual impact, removing non-essential materials to highlight the layered architecture of the mechanism and spotlighting its finely detailed bridges, wheels and gears. finished.
Here are six stunning new skeletons with excellent bone structure:
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon
Who could fault Grand Seiko for wanting to strut the impressive mechanics of its Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon ($350,000) with an airy, openwork construction.
This technical feat manages to condense a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism into a single unit on a single axis. The elimination of additional components to connect the two mechanisms not only slims down the 43.8 mm case, in mirror-polished platinum and hard titanium, but also considerably increases precision and performance.
Kodo means heartbeat in Japanese, a reference to the distinctive rhythm of movement, which works for both the eyes and the ears. The inner tourbillon carriage rotates as the balance wheel vibrates at eight beats per second, while the constant-force outer carriage follows its rotation in one-second intervals. Together, they harmonize in a bewitching rhythm.
Parmigiani Tonda PF Skeleton
While skeletonizing a movement usually involves opening it up as much as possible, Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Skeleton artistically reveals its organic essence in a dark, dense latticework, preserving its contemporary character, balance and volume.
Available in 40mm 18k rose gold ($97,400) or stainless steel with a knurled platinum bezel ($65,300), both versions contrast with the openworked graphite-colored dial, which draws the viewer in for a more attentive to the finer details: hand-chamfered angles, alternating sandblasted and satin-brushed surfaces, hand-applied indexes and 18-carat pink gold skeletonized delta hands displaying the time on the outer hour ring.
Flip it over for another view of the 187 components of the PF777 movement, including a 22-karat gold oscillating weight that winds the openworked barrel, providing a view of the perpetually pulsating mainspring driving the balance wheel at 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Cartier Mysterious Masse
The Masse Mystérieuse de Cartier (price on request) gives a new and technical touch to the of the House specialty in skeletonization and its historic Mystery Clock dating from the beginning of the 20th century. Here the mystery deepens with the watch’s skeleton movement condensed within the confines of the semi-circular rotating oscillating weight sandwiched between clear sapphire crystal windows with the central hour and minute hands suspended above.
Almost eight years in the making, the new patent-pending Caliber 9801 MC ensures that the effects of gravity do not affect the performance of the chronometer. All of the components that receive energy from movement, transmission and regulation are integrated into the rotor, which rotates back and forth as the wrist moves to generate energy. A sophisticated integrated differential system, borrowed from automobile construction, prevents the time display from being overtaken by the oscillating weight.
Limited to 30 pieces, the Mysterious Masse in platinum 43.5 mm is hailed as the most technical and complex piece ever developed by the manufacturingsure to cause mass hysteria among avid Cartier collectors.
Chopard LUC Full Strike Sapphire
Chopard celebrated the 25th anniversary of its first LUC collection with a clear winner, the LUC Full Strike Sapphire (US$450,000), limited to five pieces. Bringing new meaning to the term fully transparent, the 42.5mm watch’s bezel, strap, crown, caseback and back glass are all cut from blocks of clear sapphire, providing a 360-degree view of the LUC 08.01- hand-wound. L caliber.
The chronometer-certified in-house movement is the first hand-wound minute repeater movement featuring a striking system using crystal gongs attached to the sapphire crystal, forming a single monobloc to amplify the sound. Equipped with four patents and a unique striking-on-demand system, the movement uses two barrels, one for the time with a 60-hour power reserve, and the other for the striking mechanism, generating enough energy to ring the longest sequence, 12:59, twelve times.
H.Moser & Cie. Pioneer Skeleton Cylindrical Tourbillon
H.Moser & Cie. emphasizes dimension, dynamics and diffusion of light in a new openworked version of its Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon, the 43.8mm Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton in stainless steel (US$86,900). Reduced to the essentials, the Manufacture HMC 811 caliber showcases the 60-second flying tourbillon fitted with a cylindrical hairspring at 6 o’clock in a dramatic new light.
Beneath the domed sapphire crystal at 12 o’clock, a domed sub-dial displaying hours and minutes is finished with Moser’s signature smokey Funky Blue treatment featuring luminescent Globolight hour markers.
Entering the skeleton watch segment, H. Moser expresses its signature style that balances contemporary design and attitude with age-old traditional horology, such as the cylindrical hairspring, an 18th-century invention commonly used for marine chronometers.
The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton is also designed for everyday adventures with water resistance up to 12 ATM, and you can switch up your look with a choice of black alligator leather, rubber, textile or kudu leather straps as well as a sporty steel bracelet.
Montblanc unveils limited edition Secret Minerva monopusher chronograph
Although they may appear to be skeletons, the Montblanc Monopusher Secret Minerva Unveiled Chronograph Limited Editions simply pass themselves off as openworked watches with an alluring sleight of hand – the hand-wound MB 16.29 movement has been flipped to reveal its complex inner workings through the dial. side of the watch without removing anything.
However, it is more complicated than it seems. To turn the movement over, watchmakers must also reverse the clockwise direction. Caliber MB 16.29 was one of the only movements in Montblanc’s stable of chronographs that could be adapted with the addition of 21 components. Now, instead of having to flip the watch over to observe the crisp action of the complex monopusher chronograph with its signature gooseneck regulator on the back of the watch, it’s on top for the world to see.
Montblanc offers 18 pieces in its signature Lime Gold alloy with a subtle green luster (US$48,900) and 58 pieces in stainless steel with a white gold bezel (US$33,500).