In our second feature from the recent Watches and Wonders show, we take a look at what new things you could add to your collections this year.
TAG Heuer has drawn on its distinguished motorsport heritage for an evocative new chronograph unveiled at Watches and Wonders. Always associated with Hollywood star Steve McQueen and his film Le Mansas well as the great racing car Porsche 917 and drivers such as the late aces Jo Siffert and Pedro Rodriguez, the orange and blue colors of the Gulf Oil Company are also linked to the Heuer name.
The special edition TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf is full of all these references, to which are added the 39mm square case and the perforated leather strap which, in horological terms, have been linked to the most famous race on the Formula 1 calendar for more than half a year. century. On a largely dark blue field adorned with an offset racing stripe and a chrono minute dial in signature Gulf colors, as well as oil company branding at 6 o’clock, it looks every bit like the element of the pukka period – even down to the anachronistic fonts on the under-dails – although the TAG co-branding is an obvious giveaway. But with an 80-hour reserve thanks to its automatic Heuer02 movement, it is also resolutely modern.
You can read more about Chopard’s new LUC chiming watches elsewhere in this issue, but there were other estimable newcomers from the Geneva house at this year’s Watches and Wonders. Among them is the extremely beautiful, luxurious and yet wonderfully understated three-hand LUC XPS 1860 Officer in a 40 mm case in ethical yellow gold, with a forest green dial on a solid gold base, and small seconds and an aperture. date at 6 o’clock. hours. Powered by the ultra-thin LUC 96.01 automatic movement – it provides 65 hours of battery life and can be viewed via an opening officer-style case back – and presented on a brown alligator strap, this really is a men’s watch more distinguished, dressy but versatile enough to wear in a more casual setting.
Also new for 2022 are the additions of Flying Tourbillon and Chronograph to the Alpine Eagle sports line, and several new Happy Sports with the iconic dancing diamonds. These include: two 40mm chronographs in ethical rose gold and stainless steel respectively; a 33 mm three-hand version, hour only, in pink gold; and three 40 mm Métiers d’Art models set in ethical gold, on the themes of the Hummingbird, the Polar Bear and the Sea Turtle.
H.Moser & Cie.
Remarkable for plowing its own furrow without compromise, the independent Schaffhausen brand launched several new releases at Watches and Wonders 2022, including the three-hand Endeavor Center Seconds Concept (despite the name, it’s in full production). This stunner features a dazzling smoky lime grand feu dial with no indexes or brand markers, a 40mm steel case, the HMC 200 automatic movement and a gray kudu leather strap.
At the other end of the color spectrum – if indeed black is there – is the Streamliner Chronograph Blacker Than Black, whose Vantablack carbon nanotube case coating absorbs almost all light that comes in contact with it. . A real black hole on the wrist, it is not yet in production, but knowing H Moser & Cie, the brand is certainly working on it.
Equally provocative, the new H Moser Cylindrical Tourbillon presents a skeletonized architecture incorporating a 60-second flying tourbillon associated with a cylindrical hairspring. With its smoked blue dial offset at 12 o’clock, its slate gray bridges and its openworked rose gold winding rotor, it is as much beauty as it is ingenuity.
Not only did this year’s show mark the debut of Grand Seiko Watches and Wonders, but the Japanese manufacture practically stole the show with the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon (see Prestige, May). As well as being the brand’s most complicated watch, it’s also the first time these two mechanisms have been paired in a wristwatch by any manufacturer.
Other new releases for 2022 include a pair of Spring Drive GMTs in the Sporty Evolution 9 collection, which features an evolved design language, 41mm titanium cases and bracelets, second time zone numerals displayed on a fixed bezel , a date window at 3 o’clock, a power reserve indicator at 8 o’clock and “misty” textured gray lacquer or black lacquer dials. In addition to 72 hours of power, the Caliber 9R66 Spring Drive offers an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month – a figure that is probably too conservative.
They are joined by two other Spring Drives that update the Chronograph GMT collection, with Evolution 9 styling on their heavy 45.3mm high-density titanium cases. It’s available this month in a limited 15th anniversary edition (SBGC249) with blue dial and light blue rotating bezel, and will be joined next month by a regular production version (SBGC251) in black.
Along with a pair of 41mm Chonomaster Sport Chronographs powered by El Primero 3600 in two-tone stainless steel and rose gold, or full rose gold, Zenith turned back time to the early 2000s by unveiling a revamp of the Chronomaster Open in three new references. They feature the semi-openworked dials then in vogue – and, in the case of Zenith in particular, displayed the workings of its high-frequency escapement, whose balance wheel beats exceptionally at 10 vibrations per second, for all. see.
In currently popular 39.5mm stainless steel (with white or black dials on a steel strap) or rose gold (with white dial and leather strap) cases, these Chronomaster Opens are powered by a development of the 3600 movement , with its famous speed. – rotating chronograph seconds hand, but no date window. As for us, we love both the El Primero caliber and the smaller case size of this new Chronomaster, but we’re still not sure about the revival of the half-open-heart aesthetic. Time will tell us.
Fresh off the Kering group, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled two new references to its groundbreaking Freak collection – featuring a centrally rotating caliber indicating hours and minutes – which is still at the forefront of unconventional technology and design after over 20 years. Although a silicon balance wheel features prominently on the dial of both timepieces, the Freak X Aventurine uses a UN-230 self-winding movement directly developed from existing calibers and is therefore a bit more conventional in appearance. The Freak S, however, uses an all-new UN-251 motor developed by watchmaker Carole Forestier-Hasapi with help from Ludwig Oechslin of Ochs und Junior, which takes up most of the center of the dial and looks nothing like of what preceded it.
Both watches come in titanium and rose gold cases, although the Freak S also gets black ceramic and DLC; the dials are black too, but in the case of the Freak X Aventurine it’s more of a shimmering blue-black. These are necessarily limited editions: the X is available in 99 copies, while the S, about three and a half times more expensive, is produced in 75 copies.
Alongside the incredibly eye-catching Boy.Friend X-Ray Skeleton Red Edition, with perfume bottle cap-shaped case and sapphire bezel, skeletonized Caliber 3 movement with red bridges and matching alligator strap, Chanel presented its first – never a tourbillon at Watches and Wonders 2022, in the form of the J12 Diamond Tourbillon, the production of which is limited to 55 pieces.
Presented in a 38 mm black ceramic case with matching strap, the Diamond Tourbillon features the Chanel-made caliber 5 flying tourbillon whose cage, visible at 6 o’clock, is set with a single solitaire diamond in its center. And that’s not all, because the bezel, hands and crown are also set with diamonds.
If all that – and a 38mm case size – seems a bit excessive for your wrist, Chanel has also unveiled the new 33mm version of the J12 in white or black ceramic, which is powered by the recently developed smaller automatic caliber 12.2. (a variant of which also features in Tudor’s new Black Bay 32 S&G) which offers a 50 hour reserve. The watch is water resistant up to 20 bar.
The luxury house which is gaining more and more respect for its whimsical yet thoughtful approach to watchmaking has unveiled scarf-inspired novelties in the Arceau collection. Among them, the madness of the sky, on the theme of travel, which combines animation, engraving and painting on its mother-of-pearl dial, and the Pocket Cheval Punk 48 mm haute horlogerie tourbillon minute repeater pocket watch in white gold, adorned with a punk horse motif by Japanese illustrator Daiske Nomura.
In terms of dreamlike beauty, however, none can match the magnificent Arceau le temps voyageur, which features an offset dial that rotates around 24 time zones on an engraved map of the imaginary world. Available in a 41mm platinum case with black DLC-treated titanium bezel and gray dial, or in a 38mm steel version with blue dial, the watch is powered by an H1837 automatic movement with a specially designed dual time zone mechanism. developed for Hermès by the complication specialist Chronode.
As expected, Parmigiani offered new variations on its subtly minimalist – but no less luxurious – Tonda PF theme at Watches and Wonders, notably with the new GMT Rattrapante, which superficially resembles the two-hand and date Microrotor model launched last year. . Here, however, the date window has been exceptionally removed, while a second 12-hour rose gold “home-time” hand has been added to the time display.
Operated by a rose gold pusher in the crown and another button at 8 o’clock, the white gold hour hand either sits above its rose gold equivalent in its territory or moves around the dial in increments an hour to view a second zone while on the go. Set against a Milano blue barleycorn pattern dial, the indexes and brand logo are applied white gold, while the 40mm case and bracelet are stainless steel with a knurled platinum bezel. The PF051 automatic movement has a rose gold microrotor and beats at 3 Hz for a 48-hour reserve. It also offers 72 hours of power.
We talked about the new colorful limited edition Integral Ceramics series in the May issue of Prestige, but Hublot has also rolled out a brand new line at Watches and Wonders, namely the Square Bang. In almost every way, it’s the Big Bang that fans of the brand know and love, with its screw-down bezel and modular construction, except for one key aspect: it’s the first square watch produced by the Portohole.
With square dimensions of 42 mm, it comes in five initial versions – satin black ceramic (a limited edition of 250 pieces), full titanium, titanium and black ceramic, King gold and King gold with black ceramic – all powered by a typically skeletonized HUB1280 in-house caliber. Offering time, date and chronograph functions, the movement also offers 72 hours of power.