Colored gray: 14 watches with gray dials | Viewing time


Fashionable watches in recent years have been mostly blue and green. Now we see something completely new: gray. So take a few minutes to see some of today’s most exciting gray watches and immerse yourself in the diversity of colors. It is time well spent.

Bell & Ross BR 05 Steel Gray – 40 mm diameter stainless steel case, water resistant to 100 meters; Caliber BR-CAL.321 with perforated wheel-shaped rotor (Sellita SW300-1), automatic, 38-hour power reserve; Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp $ 4,400 on rubber strap, $ 4,900 on strap
Armin Strom Tribute 1 – Stainless steel, 38 mm in diameter, waterproof to 50 meters; hand decorated manufacturing Caliber AMW21, manual winding, barrel integrated into the dial with white gold bridge, 100-hour power reserve; gray alcantara calfskin strap with stainless steel folding clasp; limited to 25 pieces, $ 15,600
Chopard Alpine Eagle – Stainless steel case, 41 mm in diameter, water resistant to 100 meters; manufacturing Caliber 01.01-C, automatic, chronometer, 60-hour power reserve; stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp, $ 12,800

Watches have become noticeably more colorful over the past decade. As late as 2010, luxury watches were still primarily an achromatic affair – with white or black dials and silver steel cases, there was at most a singular red hand. But this situation quickly changed. Colorful dials and bracelets became more common, and materials like rubber invited designers to play with color. In the second half of the decade, watches first turned blue, and then more and more models appeared in green. Both trends continue to this day. But in 2021, a whole other shade has emerged: gray.

Longines Hydroconquest – Stainless steel, 41mm diameter, partially PVD coated, ceramic bezel insert, water resistant to 300 meters; Caliber L888.5 (ETA A31.L11), automatic, 72-hour power reserve; rubber strap, folding clasp with safety push buttons, $ 1,800
Nomos Glashütte Club Campus 38 Absolute Gray – Stainless steel, 38.5 mm in diameter, waterproof to 100 meters; the caseback can be engraved up to 88 characters; Caliber Alpha, manual winding, 43-hour power reserve; black strap in charcoal-colored suede, $ 1,650
Hublot Big Bang Integral Gray Ceramic – Ceramic case 42 mm in diameter, water resistant to 100 meters; manufacturing Caliber HUB 1280, automatic, 72-hour power reserve; ceramic bracelet with titanium folding clasp, $ 23,100

The surprising thing is that none of these gray watches look gray – at least, not in the sense that people often associate with gray – dull, boring, or understated. These watches are different. They span a much more colorful and diverse watch scene than ever before. Today, any color is possible, even for a luxury watch, both in terms of technical feasibility and public acceptance. A gray watch can just as easily be green, blue or red. In this context, the conscious decision in favor of gray becomes a statement, and the effect is totally different from what it would have been in 2010.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar – Titanium, 40 mm in diameter, 5.8 mm in height (the thinnest perpetual calendar in the world); manufacturing BVL 305 caliber, automatic with micro-rotor, 60-hour power reserve; titanium bracelet with titanium folding clasp, $ 59,000
Tutima Glashütte Flieger – Stainless steel, 41 mm in diameter, waterproof to 100 meters; ETA 2836 modified, automatic movement; Horween leather strap with pin buckle, $ 1,650
Oris Big Crown H̦lstein Edition 2021 РStainless steel, 38 mm in diameter, waterproof to 50 meters; back engraved with Oris bear; manufacturing Caliber 403, automatic, resistant to magnetic fields, 120-hour power reserve; gray leather strap with quick change system; limited to 250 pieces, $ 3,900

At the same time, gray is the antithesis of the world of colorful diversity. He invites his viewer to rest, to take a break and to breathe. Gray has another fascinating quality: it is not one-dimensional because not all grays are the same. On the one hand, this is due to the proportions of white and black, which make the gray darker or lighter. On the other hand, some shades of gray appear almost colorful as they turn green, blue or brown, depending on the lighting.

Sinn 358 Sa Flieger DS – Stainless steel, 42 mm in diameter, waterproof to 100 meters, protected against low pressure Ar dehumidification technology; dial with decorative pattern made by hand; Caliber Sellita SW500, automatic, with chronograph function; textile strap with pin buckle, $ 3,050
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 – Silver case, bezel with aluminum inlay 39 mm in diameter, water resistant to 200 meters; manufacturing Caliber MT5400 with silicon balance spring, automatic, chronometer, 70-hour power reserve; taupe-colored textile strap with silver band, pin buckle, $ 4,300
Norqain Adventure Sport – Stainless steel case, bezel with ceramic inlay, 42 mm in diameter, water resistant to 100 meters; Caliber NN08 (SW 200-1), automatic, 38-hour power reserve; stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp, $ 2,190
A. Lange & Șhne Ulysses РWhite gold case 40.5 mm in diameter, water-resistant to 120 meters; manufacturing Caliber L155.1, automatic, 50-hour power reserve; rubber strap with pin buckle, $ 43,500
Seiko Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB237 – Stainless steel case 42.7 mm in diameter, water resistant to 200 meters; manufacturing Caliber 6R35, automatic, 70-hour power reserve; polyester strap with pin buckle, $ 1,300

A version of this article appears in the WatchTime Special Design Issue 2022, on sale now.

About Robert L. Thomas

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